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Spit! February 1, 2024 | Episode 342



Spit! February 1, 2024 | Episode 342

Yeah guy yeah guy David that’s right I said it yeah gu it is H Thursday morning it’s the first day of February 2024 and uh we have a jam-packed show for you we’ve got of course the first wct event of the Season which has taking place um some musy moments a duah Hanam

Moku and more Surf News a lot of stuff happening David welcome good morning thank you Scott it is an exciting it is defin a yagi type of morning and you pick the right day by the way I pitched yesterday to you you’re like no let’s do Thursday woke up Thursday raining

There’s nothing else we could be doing today yeah that’s that’s kind of why I picked it right it’s not a surf morning it’s a talk morning exactly and not a pipe Master’s morning either although not yet they might run the women’s in a couple of hours but I want to give you

One listener feedback before we get into the story of the day which was yesterday pipeline but listener I I thought about this last show and I did not say it on air and a listener chimed in and so I think it’s worth setting the record straight hey David just listen to the

Most recent episode of spit and had to cringe when Scott incorrectly used the word snake multiple times during his explanation of the drop in lawsuit in California the incorrect usage is one of my pet peeves snaking is when a person back paddles someone the person is literally going behind someone’s back

Which is why the back paddler is called a snake if the snake is tricky enough in a crowded lineup he can even Slither behind a person with the right of way at the very last second before taking off and fool the person into thinking that they are the drop in amazingly sometimes

Even causing the victim to apologize bottom line snaking is not dropping in it is completely different it’s a completely completely different surf crime I feel this is important because plenty of newer and Co Surfers don’t have a clue about order in the lineup and there is a need to put put

Appropriate labels on bad behavior would be nice to hear discussion on the next episode with a full apology from Scott bass who should know better okay thank thanks for the uh keep thanks and keep up the otherwise good work peanut okay peanut I fully apologize according to your definition

Of the term snake I have made more than a faux paw but uh do you agree do you agree that like once break it down yeah I mean I I I would definitely say that when you’ve been back paddled you’ve been snaked there’s no doubt about that

Um I guess what he’s saying is that if somebody drops in on you you’re not getting snaked or getting dropped in on which I mean it’s I’m not gonna uh you know it’s sort of nitpicking I like I said I agree back paddling is snaking

I also think that uh when you drop in on somebody you’re snaking them as well but it’s kind of really yeah I see I used I use snaking pretty Loosely as well throughout my life but when I really think about it it’s dropping in there is a distinction there dropping in is uh

When you’re in front of the person snaking is when you go behind them right yeah but well look first of all again I agree like I’m not here to whatever it’s all it’s neither here nor there the bottom line is that an indiscretion has occurred um which indre I would say that

Back paddling better fits the def like the the feeling of um snake is when somebody slithers past you like a snake I totally agree with peanut there um I guess my question is what do you call somebody who drops in on you other than a drop in

Can’t call him a snake are you saying we’re not allowed to call him a snake you can call him a snake but the ACT isn’t snaking you could say they burned you okay fair drop in drop in I think is appropriate and that’s wouldn’t be confused as anything else that’s

Specific to um first question I want to ask you about pipeline yeah did your survival pick make it isn’t it still going yes yes but they make it out of day one did they get eliminated in the round elimination round yet no okay because you were you the one who mentioned potentially picking

Kyo I was kyo’s out I know man somebody else dm’d me too and they’re like how do you feel about Kyo like I’m not going to use him throughout the rest of the season but he charges and he’s done well at pipe and I go you know what he’s not

The worst pick he’s definitely not a safe pick you know and sure enough he’s out sure some people pick Kyle because and by the way hats off to Kyle he was absolutely charging that was a tough heat I mean I was inspired by Kyo um so I’m disappointed that that he didn’t get

Through I guess I sort of well actually I do I actually root for Kyo I root for Kyo he’s my blue collar grinder guy he’s like seems like he’s 40 years old he’s been like a wild card barely getting into the events for 15 years you know

What I mean and then when does get in he proves his medal so I’m a huge well everyone knows you and I are Kyo fans I mean we started a whole thing exactly with Kyo promoting Kyo as the guy but um that’s too bad about the survival League

Performance there my guy is still going is your guy still going yes I officially wouldn’t reveal last week but for the record now John John Florence was my pick God he looked great John John oh my my pick for survival league is Yaga oh okay great pick yeah I figured

He’ll get through too he’s he’s Yaga dor could be the world champion yeah I agree he checks all the boxes yep I agree so um we’ll see what happens but you know so could John John Florence and I would love it if that would be a great final Yago and John

John yeah you know two guys that have proven their their worth at the most notorious and dangerous wave in the world Pipeline and then they’ve got the air game to win at lowers yeah but can they beat Felipe at lowers is the question Felipe is the lower Surfer so no doubt

About that Felipe is phenomenal lowers but um I don’t know man you don’t get me to bite here I had a whole I’ll just tell the listeners I had a whole I had written out a whole diet tribe like an anti Felipe di tribe like I can’t believe how embarrassing his performance

Is at pipeline but it comes then it comes out later that he had stomach flu and he’s withdrawn so I’m going to give him I know I’m gonna give him a pass because he probably I that wouldn’t be a lie right he’s not it’s it’s a 100% a lie

Wow yeah well I have to I’m not his doctor and I don’t you know so I am not going to go into my anti Philipe at pipeline diet tribe because I want to do the right thing and give him the benefit of the doubt wow okay good

You take that side I’ll take the other side uh Felipe has competed in 100 events on tour he has never to my memory pulled out of a single heat due to food poisoning or other stomach problems he has a record of not going on big waves not surfing heavy Reef breakes

This isn’t the heaviest of them all he’s pulled out on smaller days this was you know like legitimately scary pipeline so the big question surrounding it leading up to it is will this pattern continue and on the very first time he’s ever withdrawn from competition with stomach

Issues is on the day where it happens to be at heavy pipe if he had stomach issues at lowers would he still paddle out I’m gonna say yeah I’m gonna say he’ [ __ ] throughout the water while he’s surfing if he needed to you know what I

Mean like this this is like large lion shits exactly so there is no question in my mind that this is a completely fabricated story especially when he surfed the heat earlier in the day and he looked scared he didn’t seem to be having TR stomach troubles and then a

Mere 2 hours later he has food poisoning so where did he get the food poisoning from was it from on site at the contest because everybody else was eating that food nobody else seemed to have stomach issues it’s very very suspect I’ll go on the record say he he and his Camp are

Fully ly wow all right fair enough well um you know it’s funny I was watching the noad I was reading article on stab with noine it was an interview and stab said hey look it feels like one of the last Traditions that unites the surf culture is everyone getting together on

The NorthShore for the wct pipe event um there’s a kernel of Truth to most cliches that The Proving Ground the thing that still holds meaning to people which is probably why guys get bashed for dogging it at pipe and still winning world World titles this is from

Stab yeah and no and Noah said yeah it still means something to have a good performance at pipeline whereas someone might go crazy somewhere else and it just doesn’t hold the same weight really that’s not to say that you can’t make it a world title that is without going

There there’s plenty of people that are crazy good at surfing that don’t do Hawaii but I think you gain a lot of respect for surfing in those types of ways and ripping and then we cut to Felipe’s performance a 1.77 on two waves and um Grant again he

Says he has food poisoning he’s pulled out of the competition due to a stomach flu um I’m not sure actually even how that works do you just go hey I don’t feel good I’m not surfing or do you have to provide the WSL with some sort of

Doctor’s note do they just let you slide yeah I think they just let it slide at that point but let’s talk about the one heat that he did surf the opening Heat or the yeah opening round heat he let me say this let before you get there let me

Just say this so my diet tribe prior to me deciding to not to give him the benefit of the doubt my diet tribe is that um his performance just simply wasn’t endearing from a fans perspective uh it’s hard for fans to root for Felipe and we know he’s a good

Human being this isn’t a personal attack this is simply a perspective from a fan that if you’re the two time defending world champion surf fans demand that you surf and charge heavy solid Pipeline on the opening day of the new WSL season and that you make a statement because you’re our world

Champion your job believe it or not is to inspire us and I’m not inspired by his first round Heat yesterday his lack of a performance is in some ways an indictment on his world title and on the WSL does the world number one F1 driver

Decide not to give it his all on the gnarliest most demanding F1 track on the very first day of competition I don’t think so but again I’m going to yield and and consider that he had the St M flu as a reason but based on his

Performance uh it looked like he had you know maybe covid or something horrible yeah it looks like he had the same fear that I would have before I had to give a speech at school the next day you know what I mean that that makes my stomach churn as well like when you’re

Nervous about something your stomach churns turns out that isn’t food poisoning Felipe too um and I agree with you about about the indictment part is Felipe isn’t doing he’s not bending the rules at all to win his world titles he’s simply using the format that the

WSL has designed and I put a lot of the onus here on the WSL because can you imagine misunderstanding surfing so badly that you make pipeline completely inconsequential in your tour so that the world champ can simply opt out of the most heavy wave on the planet and have

Zero consequence and just Walts through a world title in one day you know I mean I understand he accumulates enough Point throughout the season to get into that finals day but if the season was designed with the understanding that good waves matter and in fact the best

Waves matter more and should probably be allocated more points Caleb Robson would smoke Felipe in that scenario Caleb robs would be ranked I don’t know if he’d be World Champ because he still got to get through Gabe and fle and uh John John and other guys but he would rank higher

Than Felipe in that scenario you know what I mean and because you watch him come through you don’t really think about him and then you watch him in a heat and you go holy cow that guy the ten at Portugal last year the wave of the day yesterday at pipe you know and

You go that guy is our hero that’s the no-name guy who shows up and he’s our hero he faces what what none of us El none of us would do and it turns out that he has the talent to actually do it that’s incredible you know and so that’s

What we want to see and if the if you understand surfing at all you get it entirely whoever’s running the WSL and making the decisions misses the most essential part of Surfing yeah I mean are you suggesting that bipe has a strategy that he knows he can avoid treacherous waves in the

Opening rounds of events at locations like chopu and pipeline knowing that in the next round the elimination round it perhaps will be smaller and safer and even if it isn’t if it’s still huge pipe he can pass on the event and still win the world title is that what you’re

Suggesting yes entirely I’m suggesting that he can put his money down on the good events and get through to the fifth position and then smoke everybody at lowers now if the final five scenario was at a wave of consequence he would have to have an entirely different

Strategy but to him the tour is perfectly designed for him just to Surf waste high waves you know Shane Doran you may have heard him yesterday speaking about Eli hannaman and others that he coaches and he basically said hey look here’s the deal you just have to Surf

Pipeline you have to put in the hard yards you have to put in years and years and years of Surfing pipeline and uh eventually it’s going to pay off and we’ve seen it pay off for countless guys that throughout the years um have put in their time and it’s paid off and

The one guy who it seems like has never put in the time at least and correct me if I’m wrong maybe there’s unreal free footage free free no but it just seems like it’s just sad it’s just sad it’s sad that our that it seems as if unless of course and

I’m not doubting that he wasn’t sick but based on past performances it seems like our world champion our world champion is afraid of Surfing waves of consequence now we’ve seen him a choo we’ve seen him paddle out like he’ll he’ll go out there when it’s massive you

Know like solid like not massive okay not massive but he he like he does just enough but it doesn’t seem like he’s putting himself on the ledge and just like it it just doesn’t seem like so it just doesn’t seem like that Lion Heart is really there it’s the

Cowardly Lion is what should be tattooed on his chest from The Wizard of Oz oh my God you’re bringing the so we haven’t seen him we haven’t seen him go at Big chobu we’ve seen him a couple of years ago powering on the shoulder and specifically not go when the tide was

Low and then his dad getting on Instagram saying the tide was low and he had his arm was hurt or something like that and then the following year with a big question mark going into it we saw him sit on the shoulder and take off on one or two waves but definitely not

Charging it and definitely not um sharking the lineup like he does at every other stop on tour you know where he’s like absolutely trying to dominate the spot you see him being incredibly tentative and specific to his Heat yesterday the first heat that he did

Surf he let a million good waves go he did not get a wave until there was six minutes left he had priority the vast majority of that time waves came directly to him the other competitors would just sit under him fipe wouldn’t even make a look for it and they’d just

Go and get an eight-point ride so he took off on one wave with six minutes left and it looked like he was trying to get to the shoulder of the wave as fast as possible and it wasn’t even a throaty one and then the the second wave was

Completely on the shoulder it’s where I would have taken off and he tried to do a snap and he did a snap on it and then just came in so that said all that we needed to say at that point then the fact that he pulled out with diarrhea is

Just like you got to be kidding me like this is this is a mockery you know so I want to read something to you yeah The Internet’s been amazing ever since this happened which is why I love the internet like I said I had an entire I had paragraphs written about this but

When I found out he was sick to his stomach I went I’m not going to be that guy I’m going to let David be that guy so please let’s let CJ be that guy CJ hobgood commented on Instagram CJ bringing it CJ hobgood commented on Instagram the Undisputed champion of the

World and never to be defeated exclamation point diarrhea that’s it that was diarrhea is undefeated it will take anybody down um Felipe Toledo have you ever had food poisoning by the way you know what interestingly and this is part of the reason why I’m going to give him a pass and believe him

Or at least I don’t know I guess I believe him I actually threw up for the first time last week violently like in the middle of the night and and it’s the first time in like two decades you know 20 years or whatever so I was like oh

You know what man there’s no way I could have even left the bathroom perfect glad you said that so so when you had that were you on your phone scrolling Instagram fighting with people riding big Dia tribes no I couldn’t even I mean I was okay perfect I was in so

Why was phip capacitated so why was Felipe on Instagram yesterday after his heat when he supposedly had food poisoning fighting with everybody on the internet I couldn’t tell you it sounds like maybe he didn’t it wasn’t as bad as mine was that’s what it sounds like to

Me too here’s what he said in almost seemingly in response to CJ he said to the critics and the world champions who comment on social networks outside believe what you want I’m not here to prove anything my health is my priority to to those cheering me on thank you

Very much we are together and haha we will be back stronger now I’m gonna read that’s lame he he should have just stared clear this whole thing entirely true so here’s a listener I woke up to this just an hour ago a listener named Noah who chimes in

From time to time and always has really well I think rational and thoughtful commentary he says what makes me more mad than him not going on waves of consequence and heats is his repeated response to his critics it’s I don’t have to prove anything to you that

Response shows the heart of the problem as he isn’t owning his failure as a professional Surfer representing his sponsor’s country in the WSL his expectation that everyone should feel bad for him or maintain a wall of positive noise and look the other way when he doesn’t go on waves and heats is

Ridiculous scrutiny is a healthy Concept in competition Sports and acknowledging your weakness is part of the game The Lion facade with everything cheetah pattern by the way why is it cheetah pattern if Lions don’t have a pattern uh is and by the way yeah so is further gaslighting to the

Fans as to try to convince us all he is courageous and we should celebrate him for that what a perfect example of the final product of the WSLS changes to the sport here is your two-time world champion sitting in a yellow Jersey over his lion tattoo and cheetah spray board

And shorts bobbing in the should on the shoulder like a buoy with priority on an empty lineup at glassy 8 to 10 foot pipe and backd door to only go on two mush burgers for a0 five something or. five something is terribly wrong here well Noah nailed it and

And you know it’s it’s funny because I think about Michael Jordan right when we think about goats and world champions and and people with the Heart of a Lion there if you’re a basketball fan and there are many many NBA and Michael Jordan fans listening right right now

And they all know the game I’m talking about there was a famous game called the flu game where Michael Jordan literally was incapacitated he was he was just he’d been sick all night long heaving just grossly stomach flu like incredible dehydrated halftime getting IV and he

Went out there and put on an incredible show of of Championship caliber greatest of alltime caliber perform when he was deathly ill I mean and the whole world watched it and the broadcast uh you know the commentators were commenting on it like it’s a very very

Famous game this was in the world this is in the finals of uh the world you know the the series The Best of seven series Michael Jordan stepped up and and to me that’s like that’s what a champion does yeah you got to step up and um well

And then you know it’s sad that that bipe is on social media sort of chiming in while while he’s incapacitated while he’s like supposedly it was just yeah it was I mean look I as soon as it was going down I was texting you going can

You believe this this is before I knew he had or he said that he had a stomach flu but I wrote a list of guys like I I’m just so uninspired there’s so many guys I’d rather watch Surf pipeline than our quote unquote world Champion well

Look let’s get kind of Beyond Felipe and recognize pipe is amazing right when the day starts we’re all anticipating it the day starts and pipe is looks like it did yesterday and you see people paddling out and all the nerves involved it’s super exciting it remains you know the

Pinnacle of our Sport and then when Felipe performs like that and conducts himself like that it completely undermines all of our fandom you know and it and also the way that the WSL again has made pipeline completely inconsequential undermines it it points the finger at them as like God why is this even

Happening like he should be having the Michael Jordan moment where this is actually the finals day and he does have the flu and he needs to paddle out there and we see the brown streak as he’s paddling you know what I mean like that’s the moment that they need to elevate

Up to and that’s the moment that we’ve seen in the past from surfing you know so so the WSL is blowing it here they’re allowing Felipe they’re not encouraging they’re not requiring the best of Felipe and Felipe’s you know no I mean he’s just afraid and he’s

Taking advantage of the situation to a certain degree yeah it’s it’s uh it does put us it does there is like a sense of okay I see what’s going to happen here we’re going to go through the year and Fleep is going to win at trestles again and he

Didn’t really show his medal and that’s the part that like I’ve got a year of having to deal with this like as a fan like I I I mean you know it’s not like I you know it’s not like that big I deal deal with but from a fan every time I

Tune into a wct event this sort of bad taste in my mouth no pun intended is going to linger like you know like we’re going to see this whole thing play out and it’s a wasted a waste of the year like the year’s already been wasted exactly I’m going to

Invest some more time this year and they’re just going to undermine it completely at the end that’s how we felt in previous years by the way imagine how you would feel if you were Karissa Moore this is why she would step away from the tour this is precisely why she stepped

Away from the tour the fan that the W the fact that the WSL does not recognize the speed that they’re losing credibility and their fan base with is insane yeah it’s it’s we’re out we’re out I mean I honestly when I saw the Felipe thing my first thing was I

Actually don’t even care I was like I don’t expect anything more from him I expect this to be able to happen in this environment this you know tour that they’ve built and so I mean it’s not a surprise at all but then I see all the

Fun online and I’m like you know what I’m gonna chime in on this this is fun well there is some good news and yeah and and in stark contrast to our world champion how great was Crosby Kino’s very first wave ever on the well it might not he probably was a wild card

Last year somewhere I don’t know but his very first wave of 2024 in wct competition at the nnar you know at Super gnarly close period close interval pipeline he gets an insane 7.33 backdoor spit out late drop it was I it was such a contrast I think it was the very next

Heat and I was like holy crap this kid just paddled out and just basically snatched all the Mojo yeah entirely and on the flip side paade Madson the other rookie the other rookie from San Clemente just getting detonated at a back door you know like a completely doubled up triple overhead backdoor bomb

And just getting to the top of it and just Free Falling the entire way down and falling sideways just in the worst possible position you could po put yourself in on the craziest wave ever and so that’s the start contrast with Felipe is like Kade Matson doesn’t know

What he’s doing out there either but he freaking went and it created this super insane highlight moment and we all recognize wouldn’t do that I would never do that out there you know like that’s the difference between these guys and us and so yeah it was

Exciting P Manson I think I I sort of slowed it down I want to say it was a 20 foot 20 feet a freef fall of 20 feet and complete side pound ear gouging death drop like that would have been one where if he just came up with the white flag I

Would have went yeah I get it that that one that one would have done me in you know I’ll wait for the elimination round I’m coming in I’ve got I’ve got food poisoning yeah yeah I’ve got by the way somebody chimed in that um there might be some some stickers going around the

NorthShore that say Felipe won’t go like in contrast to the Eddie would go like for real though I mean it was just one of those social media things okay I doubt I doubt it is for reason um well yeah so there’s plenty to be excited about yesterday we will go

Through it I mean honestly the Hawaiian wild cards brought there for just a sec let me just say one more thing this isn’t a personal attack on Felipe Toledo I just want I’m I know we both know that he’s a nice human being he’s he’s uh he doesn’t take drugs he

Doesn’t he’s a family guy he does he’s a good spokesperson or whatever for pro surfing like you know he’s just not living up to the title of world champion unless of course he did have Boon poisoning okay I’m backing away from my caveat yeah look it goes without saying I’ve never

You know maligned Felipe Toledo’s character but I do think that he is being disingenuous in his response to any criticism that he’s ever received about this so um but the wild cards were super exciting when you see somebody like Jackson Bunch it’s like okay I

Guess I know his name I’ve seen him in a heat or two you know Chey on Crawford um you know what this reminds me of like when we first started this I don’t know how long have we been doing this 10 years 10 years ago you knew

Every Surfer on the Q on the Challenger Series you’re like I’ve been watching Jackson Bunch since he was 12 years old and now you’re like I don’t know I think he’s a regular foot I’m not sure it’s true I’ve lost track of all of them um

But those guys I mean Jackson bunch is buzzer beater there was two seconds left in the Heat and a perfect pipe wave came and he surfed it flawlessly um cheyan Crawford had a gnarly wipe out in his first on his first wave paddled back out and just got an amazing one after that

Just looks so comfortable in the those guys Hawaiians look so comfortable in the lineup that there is a real difference you know between the wild card and the non uh Native Surfer and so that’s always amazing to see in these events when that happens um my other kind of highlights

From the day or talking points as it relates to this is John John Florence and Gabe Medina two former World Champs coming in potential Rivals here in terms of number of titles that they have and they could be going at it for the next decade if

The WSL allows them a platform to do it uh Gabe looked like pure domination to me just there’s no way he’s going to lose the heat he’s going to go he’s probably not even going to make a mistake but if he does he’s going to get

Right back out there and back it up with an eight and another eight and slowly get an 85 and then a nine that’s just what he does he goes back door he goes pipe he goes on the set waves he goes on the Insiders he finds the long ones he

Gets the like it’s just he’s insane he looks so dominant John John Florence on the other hand so comfortable just looks like the most comfortable thing like he just he’s gonna slink into whatever and he’s not going to really look like he’s trying that hard Gabe kind of I’m not saying

That Gabe is worse in any way but Gabe looks like he’s actually trying JN John looks like he’s not and everything just comes to him and he surfs so beautifully so much style so those were two major stands out standouts for me Ethan Ying was looked incredible to me um he’s

Not a guy that I put in that same Cal level of caliber as them but coming off of last year’s second place finish and also kind of anticipating what is he going to do now and then seeing him in waves of consequence with the exact same

Kind of style finesse and talent that He had at lowers and throughout the season last season he like oh my gosh like he did his work on the off season he’s here he’s here to like make a real run in this event yeah Gabe Medina absolutely in my mind he just looks so

Professional and part of the interesting thing about Gabe is he generally surfs pip Heats in a busy fashion he seems busy he’s picking off little things here little things there then he’s getting killer you know 8. 8.33 is whatever but he’s also staying busy on the inside

Picking up waves underneath and in some regard it could be suggested that that’s how he starts uh has been learning how to surf pipeline because I wouldn’t say that he’s a guy that’s like put in you know isn’t he’s not there in October and sitting you know setting up shop on the

Beach and surfing every single swell at pip like a ball stack or somebody like that he’s um you know over the 15 years that he’s been on tour he’s put in enough Heats that he just understands pipe from just staying busy and heats out there you know part of the you know

He’s almost like doing two jobs at once he’s going to get through his heat and he’s also going to get his many waves as he can to get a better understanding of what those waves are like and what the reef is like Gabe Medina I’m such a huge

Fan of his and and listeners of this show know that um you know when he first was on tour he was easy to not like at least yeah from my perspective but he is so easy to like he is so Michael jordanes like he just looks dominant and

And frankly I think more dominant than JN John not at pipeline but just in the fact that when it comes to like kind of like putting on the gloves and tying up the gloves and really going to battle I feel like gab’s got a little bit more

Um I don’t know he just seemed battle hardened 100% agree and I think it’s also a reflection of like a singular Focus like now that he’s got kind of the family stuff settled ex-wife out of the picture like he can focus again on what he focused on for the first 20 years of

His life and maybe 25 years um and so JN John I feel like has a bit more well-rounded personal life you know and and also just more less volatile like less just kind of more integrated into his surf life and so winning world titles is part of his objective but it’s not his

Sole objective whereas Gabriel Medina is here to win that title this year and you mentioned their their rivalry and it is something that the WSL would be so wise to ramp that up because it does exist even if they’re going to say it doesn’t even if they’re going to be nice and oh

Yeah John John he rips blah blah blah you know just say the things that they often say in these press releases or at these um these press Junctions but I I am excited for it and what disappoints me is that there’s this other thing in the way of it you know that there’s

This this potential for for that rivalry to not be what we see at the final day at at lowers there’s a potential for them to not even face one another you know to not even match up against each other together yeah so that sucks that’s that’s a

Bummer it’s a m look those two guys looked insane Jack Robinson are defending Champion out here looked insane um you mentioned Chey I have him in my notes um you mentioned Jackson of course the buzzer beater was incredible um and John John you mentioned and he just makes it look so

Easy it’s ridiculous Kelly Slater coming off coming off of a hip surgery um charged got a couple of good waves I will say Kelly looked fine but he did not look dominant you know we expect Kelly coming into events like this especially when they the conditions

Are like this to really be the guy to beat and I don’t feel like he looked that way in this and when I saw guys like shyon exhibiting the level of comfort that he did in his local waves I was like he could beat Kelly you know and

Jack Robinson in fact fact I think did beat Kelly in that heat and Jack of course is no slouch he’s a world class Barrel Rider um but I just feel like for so many years where Kelly was the guy to beat there’s now if you really kind of analyze his performance there’s eight

Guys that are right there with the same ability level and of course Kelly Slater’s 30 years older than all of them and he’s coming off of a hip surgery so again not to kind of throw Kelly under the bus but just to make kind of a critical analysis of where he fits into

The Modern Day Tour yeah I thought his his highs scoring right at back door to me it looked like 2006 he looked incredible and all he has to do is find the right line through the barrel which that is not a problem and um he looks

Solid and he looks like he could easily win maybe not easily but he could win but I do agree with you there are now like there’s kind of like six or eight guys like we could say you know like Baron mamia Kelly Slater Jack Robinson John John Florence um perhaps

Yago Gabe right there and there’s probably a few more that are right there that are just pipe Specialists that all they any of them have to do is find the right wave and they all know how to find the right wave because they put in the time let’s not forget Kelly Slater like

You said you know he’s got 35 years of experience there so at those level guys those eight guys or whoever they are you know we mentioned them they know how to find the right ways which is the difference between if a guy like say an Ethan Ying who probably or even like a

Jackson Bunch if they get through there’s going to be a time when they might just get a little nervous and take the wrong wave and not have the patience to know you know what that one’s not the one and Kelly knows the one and those eight guys know the one well with some

Of those guys like Jackson Bunch you it’s exciting to see him do the right thing in a heat but it you don’t necessarily anticipate him doing it in every single heat throughout the event and then bringing the aame into the finals and Gabriel Medina you do expect

To never make a mistake in that way Kelly Slater was somebody who I thought had kind of aged out to where he knows how to pick the good ones but he’s not going to be as feisty as Gabriel Medina to find all of the like inside drainers Runners when he needs

Them when he doesn’t have priority but two years ago when he won his title there right before his 50th birthday or won the pipe event um he did all of those things it was like he had all of the prowess and talent that he ever had

In his youth plus the tenacity and kind of competitive Spirit plus he was picking off all the you know it was that Magic of the Waves finding him and and peaked in the final against I think it was Seth mon that year so he still had

It two years ago I doubted him then I’m doubting him now two years later maybe I shouldn’t maybe he will still have the all the tools in the tool chest um but you’re right it’s not an easy event for him anymore because Gabriel Medina has all those tools uh John John Florence

Certainly does You Know Jack Robinson proved last year that he does so it’s a bit more competition than it’s been well the good news is the the swell looks solid like the the forecast looks real solid um today as you mentioned they probably run the girls it seems

Like it might be a little bit smaller today like you know five to seven feet with 8 foot sets which seems like a disservice I think you know like let’s get the women out and the solid stuff they’ve proven they can do it at the Vans pipe Masters um and I’d like like

To see that but the good news is Monday Tuesday of next week there’s some solid swell with great conditions you know we’re talking eight to days of 8 to 10 feet and um and hopefully it finishes that way you know it looks like it could

It looks like if they pick the eyes out of it I hope they don’t just run it quickly because it looks like there’s plenty of opportunities for like days that are 10 to 15 feet we all WSL Jesse we all want to see ones where there’s second Reef Rollins like we want that

Like that’s you and I remember you know Martin Potter 16 years old or whatever on a second Reef roll and you know with a jersey on and it’s just insane you know and that is I mean if you want if you want Clips on CNN wait for the

Second Reef roll in days where it’s still first reefers but these guys are getting those sick ones like that Japanese kid got um couple maybe a week ago or whatever soal hold on for just a sec okay go for it okay I also wanted to acknowledge the rookies because we were tracking the

Rookie story leading into the event Cole hman was uh somebody that we talked about having a lot of hype around him I thought he looked really really impressive turns out he still lost in the elimination round um but I don’t know he looked good he looked like he

Certainly has the talent and knew how to like find good waves and charged and then um was sharking the lineup in a way that like we talk about Gabriel Medina doing so I’m not sure what went wrong for him it’s almost dis it’s got to be discouraging for him to feel like you

Put that much effort in you got some sick barrels and you still lose on the first event of the season but uh I liked Cole I don’t know how you felt about him yeah I didn’t really have too sharp of an eye on Cole to be honest with you um

You know he’s just not guy that I I happen to check out but well Crosby Kento is into the round of 32 um Eli hanaman was the one who actually won his heat I think actually Jacob Willcox did as well the other rookie who won his

Heat but Eli hanaman 21 years old from Maui looked incredible yeah he he looked solid um Shane Dorian had a lot of interesting backstory on Eli which you and I most um Watchers know about but um he certainly put in his time uh you know interesting

Thing about Eli is that he’s one of the few guys we see wearing a helmet out there and you and I have spoken about helmets at length and we feel like it’s it’s just a matter of time before it becomes normal normal for these guys to be

Wearing helmets and um Shane had an interesting take on it that he thought it was was like a style thing that it goes against like you know a hipster style to wear a helmet when you’ve got these Bell when you’re surfing in Bell Bottom jeans and the helmet doesn’t match the outfit

You know what I mean but at some point you realized style you know what’s not stylish not being able to Surf because you have a head injury yeah I think he was more referring to it’s not cool is kind of the yeah but he didn’t say it

Like that he kind of mention different like like black wets suit white surfboard guys and neon wets suit guys and hipster guys and that it doesn’t fit the style but yeah you say Eli’s one of the few wearing a helmet but to be honest I saw we talked about this last

Week as well more guys wearing helmets in the free surfs there was a lot of guys in the competition far more than ever before wearing helmets and the likes of you know Griffin Kento like a fully capable some but he’s also just taking responsibility for his own health

And well-being so we mentioned it last week but real water sports our longtime kind of retail partner here on the podcast has devoted time effort energy to stocking helmets in their inventory just kind of seeing that all this is happening in the surf space and they have a team writer who in

Fact um had a head injury got hit in the face with a surfboard knocked unconscious um had a concussion and so they’re taking it really seriously so if you’re interested in a helmet real watersports.com has a ton um soft ones hard ones um thin thick D you

Know covers your face doesn’t cover your face not just for surfing but for foiling for kiting for everything so that’s where you would go get it if you’re interested by the way it makes me think uh if you’re a pro Surfer and you’re concerned about your health and

Your health is number one you would wear a helmet out in your heat totally completely so um uh yeah so the women are starting that’s exciting um do you have any other news stories I have some followup from previous shows about Youth and why the youth isn’t getting involved in surfing that people

Were chiming in on what about the um interesting AI uh text that we got from our friend Brian do do you have that in front of you could pull it up I think that’s very interesting while you pull it up I’ll tell tease the listeners a little bit so

We got a text from one of our longtime listeners and he went on one of the chat gpts or one of the E AI programs artificial intelligence programs what was it called Bard bar which is B Bard which is an AI software I guess I’m not

Too familiar with it uh and he typed in well David why don’t you tell the listeners what he did so the question he asked B is is WSL surf or I’m sorry in WSL surfing after which event does the midyear cut take place and this is what Bard responded as

Of January 26 2024 the WSL has scrapped the me the midyear cut format for the men and women’s Championship tours this means there is no event after which a portion of the competition competitors are eliminated from the mid from the tour midseason the midyear cut was a controver IAL format introduced in 2022

That reduced the field size after the Margaret River Pro however due to criticism from Surfers and fans the WSL decided to remove it for the W for the 2024 season wow AI knows something that you and I don’t David what is your take on this how does the AI know something or

Has predicted something and it seems so convicted and sincere and knowledgeable about this I know so that’s what it’s going to be interesting for you and I as human beings to assess where AI um somehow gathers more data points and sifts through them more efficiently than

We than our brains can you know or is it just wrong you know and ultimately I don’t think that AI has access into the WSLS inter office emails yeah exactly although they they probably do I don’t know if that’s where it’s pulling the information from um but it would be

Interesting if it’s simply like I said Gathering trillions of data points and running a certain math equation that is like look when you get this much negative feedback from the internet corporations tend to make this decision as a result and that could be what it’s referring to the one question here that

I would have though is is or problem is that they wouldn’t do it 2024 like if they were going to eliminate the midyear cut they would have already announced that they’re not going to get Midway through the season and then be like we changed our mind we’re not going to cut

The tour in half now so it could be 2025 and Bard was just off by a year well I hope they’re off by a decade I like the midyear cut less is better well yeah no but I hope they don’t ertic the midyear cut I hope they just do it

For the entire season exactly yeah so but yeah interesting to see the AI thing play out um let me address this kind of Youth and surf thing um yes listener Chim I’ve got two emails from two different listeners but I mean I think this is um resonating with the audience obviously

Some thought why don’t you set it up for them why don’t you set up the listeners a little bit well we were talking in previous shows it’s been an ongoing conversation actually for the past year about how um young people aren’t getting into surfing the average age of a surfer is

Like 45 years old there was actually a University study written about it and I think it identified the age as 45 and then we were talking last year just about how it was the year of the 50-year-old you know Tom Curran’s free scrubber Pete Mel getting the wave that

He got at uh Mavericks might have been two years ago actually um Mike hoe got a crazy wave at backdoor That season 64 years old I think and there’s more examples too where and Kelly Slater won the pipe title that year is just kind of this it’s all older

People and then there’s not as many young people coming up um like it came up recently because Matt bis’s Instagram about Surf Expo where he said it’s all people older people running the corporations and it used to be young people running them and then there were

Startups with guys who are 18 you know that were trying to get into the business so the old companies were run by 30y olds so this is in light to those conversations somebody chimed in and said just listen to your Scott and yourself on the topic of young Surfers

I’m a first generation Surfer and my son is 15 I really started surfing in my late 20s up here in the Great Lakes of Canada I was so stoked to be able to Surf that I rode every single one foot wave that the wind blew through now that

My son is old enough I was so excited to introduce him to my passion I got him outfitted with a thick neoprene we need up here and a longboard to catch every Ripple the first couple times out he was stoked but once he started looking at social media at everyone’s quote best

Days he was not interested anymore he doesn’t have the ability to just be on in the moment and have gratitude to be able to surf in landlocked Ontario Canada Canada I was trying to tell him that although it’s not anywhere close to perfect it’s our version of perfect and

That he is the only kid in his school surfing and that is something special he will surf in Florida when we go down there for spring break but even that isn’t worthy of the in of the gram the ability to sit and think and reflect is being lost with constant social media

Input and with it the desire to step out and create let’s go wake and the branch dividian Surf Company thanks regards Dave it’s funny I got a um an email from somebody in the industry that was like I love the idea of a marketing campaign that’s

Against all of the you know like like you like like you said Branch dividian like have some kid in Waco just flipping off Billabong and quicks what however you you would present it you know but it would be a big sort of Fu for lack of a

Better phrase to to the industry and I was like you know what that’d be a pretty ballsy marketing campaign but I bet it would resonate but then the question is who are we trying to resonate with it might not resonate with a 50-year-old and if that’s the market

We better stick with keeping them happy because the market doesn’t seem to be 18yar olds well that’s the exact point is that Rebellion is what everybody was tapping into previously and so tapping into the Rebellion will open up that 18-year-old Market that you were talking about that is currently untapped right

Good a list a listener by the way sent me a bunch of Branch dividian um merch yes did I send it to you no I love it oh my gosh it’s hilarious I love one of them is the Kool-Aid man like the big Kool-Aid shirt but it says branch divid and

Surfco um there’s some really good he sent a bunch hats shirts like he just put the artwork on him as a mockup but I’ll send him to you I’ll post them on Instagram I should have that day I don’t know why I didn’t yeah we should maybe

Do a little run of of of I don’t know how do you feel would you wear something that said Branch dividian or is it too it’s too risque but it’s hilarious as a meme yeah exactly I’m not wearing it um this other one came from James in San

Diego he said hey David and Scott I was listening to the latest episode of spit and as a 27-year-old in San Diego I was ecstatic to hear that the average age of surf of a surfer is 45 assuming this train Trend Remains the and fewer groms

Enter the lineup I will enter my 30s with the average surfer being 50 plus music to my ears I was pondering this while listening to you both on the latest episode and I think that you guys touched on the route but I wanted to hear a deeper dive as it seems like a

Pretty big deal if we are concerned about the longevity of the surf industry I couldn’t care less because as Jeff Spicoli so eloquently put it all I need are some tasty waves and a cool buzz and I’m fined no one needs Turtle sandals or knockoff Patagonia fleeces all we need

Are wet suits boards fins and travel equipment but I digress uh did you hear that Calamity downstairs oh no did you just have an accident I heard something fall in Austin’s crying so I got a little distracted but I’m sure they’re on it um pairing on with James’s email he says

The driving questions that need to be answered to explaining the Aging of the surfing world are twofold the first question is why are younger people not as involved or interested in surfing as the generations before them as you and Scott mentioned the youth Rebellion portion had an Allure back then uh

Ranging from Beach Bums camping at Malibu in the 50s and 60s to punk Rock partying getting wasted and packing tubes in the 9s and the early 2000s all those Generations are now either great grandparents grandparents or parents of our current upand cominging generation I don’t know about you but my grandparents

Love to play Golf and Tennis the last thing I want to do is be stuck at some stupid Country Club over the weekend old people’s interests are lame in the eyes of the youth and now our so-called Rebel Sport is in the Olympics congratulations Kelly Slater you and stinking space

Turtles made surfing lame additionally in a very Broad St sense I think that here in America younger Generations are getting progressively for lack of a better term softer and more pampered than the older Generations speaking for myself uh and my immediate friend group our elders fought Wars put in some hard

Labor to make a living and faced many challenges relative to me and my generation we are now able to find jobs that allow us to work from the comfort of our home we can order food at the push of a button anything in our world that we want can be delivered to our

Doorstep in two to three days with that to be considered what is the point of trying to paddle in the cold uh dark ocean when you can get your Thrills on the couch with a push of a button not only is there the physical surfing technique that must be learned but also

The rules of the lineup the mechanics of an everchanging ocean the correct equipment and if you want to learn you need some cash to do it life for upper upper middle class Americans today is easy and as you mentioned there are only folk who can afford to live by the

Beach by the ocean which creates another barrier of Entry the second question is why old people are sticking around conversely once you learn how to surf and stick with it for a while you can theoretically do it as long as you live if it were e much easier on the body

Relative to other or it is much easier on the body relative to other action sports like skating snowboarding Etc where you fall down on hard material and you could break your bones when you fall in surfing you fall in water and get tossed around for a couple of seconds if

You stick around a surf spot long enough younger people recognize and they’ll yield to you um if you want to surf forever you can do it so for the old folks sticking around is beautiful and I uh but not what the surf industry quote wants to see in their

Market projections anyways just my thoughts if this of is of any interest keep up the work well look there first of all talking about old people in the surf space or the Aging demographic just sounds so old you know what I mean uh and some of his commentary is

Just real like old guy get off of my lawn on you know these young people don’t know how tough it was or I don’t know but a lot of what he says is true you know um I will say this I was surfing the other day I even com commented on my

Instagram about it and the ways were super good I think it was Thursday or Friday last anyway um and I was watching 189 yearold kids that I know local kids um like Sutton tutor and this kid Liam and Harry Garder which are like red hot Seaside kids that were surfing

Another ledge up more close to where I Surf and they were getting just drainers like you know miniature little um box waves Western Australia at the you know but on a much lesser scale but but I was psyched for him I was stoked for him but

There there’s not a whole lot of them you know there’s just not a whole lot of them and it’s a lot of things that were touched on in the email are true you know like there’s this when my for instance when my son was in high school he surfed a

Ton and when I was in high school I surfed a ton and that’s all I did was Surf and it it en compassed my entire identity my life everything I did my son surfs but my son also played lacrosse played football um played video games uh skate tons of skating snowboarding tons

Of snowboarding um and so he had a much like broader view of what was available to him um and I’m wondering if that’s because the the draw of it being sort of an outlaw thing the way surfing used to be kind of like we weren’t we weren’t jocks

We were Surfers there was this delineation you know like the Surfers were over here the Stoners were over there the jocks were right here and the cheerleaders were right there and you know what I mean and and now it’s like there’s a homogeneization almost and of course I’m speaking broadly and without

Any scientific sociological data but I’m just that’s the vibe that I sense is that it’s okay to be all of these things which I think is neat and kind of good but back when I was a teenager you were one of these things you either this or

You were that and I think that’s no longer the case yeah I the delineation when I look back was the big draw for me like having an identity was something that I think any teenager needs and or you know human beings crave at that age and so for me that was the

One that res fated with me the most like the beach thing was counterculture not anybody else in the school was very few people in the school were doing it so I had my little own identity that I could be a part of the being outdoors and the athleticism and all that stuff appealed

To me as well because I grew up playing sports but I just wanted to do something that was less that was more individual more independent more creative and so that’s why surfing and then when I started kind of eming surf media it was like really rich with characters and

Person alties and individual freedom of expression you know and so I liked certain people for certain things and other people for other things and I think that it is all homogenized now and um and the marketing back then when we were kids was much more

Um I guess for lack of a better phrase punk rock you know there was Quicksilver had this marketing campaign that you know if you can’t rock and roll don’t effing show up don’t and and gacha of course was great at having marketing campaigns that were pretty you

Know like screw you we don’t even want you you know what I mean and now the marketing campaigns are like you know join this guy as he surfs in the women’s division yeah I mean no joke it’s not very it’s not very like Screw The Establishment it’s much more like

Inclusive which is one ful from a humanistic standpoint but just doesn’t seem to lend itself towards an identity a singular identity a singular reason to be like yeah this is who I am this is what I want to be this is the tribe that I’m with it’s it’s just like another

Sport now and part of blame goes on the quote unquote surf industry the soft goods clothing companies that I mean I always point to I think it was 198 6 when Quicks first went public and became a publicly traded company that was the beginning of the end if you really look

At it like it was you know before you know it they’re buying Cleveland Golf and Rosal and the whole thing just went downhill you want to protect your interest and so you start going softer in all of your efforts your marketing efforts and stuff like that you know once

You’ve uh probably gotten a taste of the bigger paychecks and you have PE a big staff that you want to protect and continue to have work and all that you stop taking risks essentially and so but those the the difference in those marketing campaigns for me it wasn’t

That those uh were exclusive and it was like you’re not you can’t be in our club it was they made it aspirational like look if you work hard enough surf good enough get put your time in it pipe you then get to be in this club and the opposite now with the

All-inclusive kind of campaigns is just everybody’s welcome doesn’t matter if you have any ability or what your body type is or anything at all just you just come on in it’s fine and that’s okay depending on what you’re doing but it’s not aspirational to somebody who actually has ambition or

Talent or a unique skill set you know what I mean and so it’s almost trying to be everything to everyone is being nothing to no nobody you know what I mean it’s being absolutely worthless to everybody and so it’s okay if to bring back the campaigns

Of we don’t want you how about unless you can prove you’re not you’re not allowed to wear leash like that that whole argument that whole uh dilemma of wearing Le because you mentioned something great which is hey you know what everyone come on in everyone’s welcome by the way here’s a

Leash you know now I’m not saying that not wearing a leash is a good idea what I’m saying is the concept of of of saying no you no leashes here that’s that’s kind of what you’re saying like hey if you’re capable of swimming out without a leash on and surfing and

Ripping you’re welcome here but if you can’t right you’re not allowed go learn how and that’s gone and I’m only using the leash as an example I’m not necessarily you know well imagine imagine lifeguards if they just said everyone is welcome come and be a lifeguard and then somebody needs to get

Saved from the ocean and you have a lifeguard who isn’t a great swimmer who doesn’t have a certain amount of they have a high body mass index they don’t have a certain amount of muscle you know they’re not going to be able to save somebody and then everybody dies so it’s

Totally okay in surfing to do the leash thing where the leash is part of not yeah not having access to the leash is the equivalent of having to jump through a few hoops and do a few push-ups and meet a certain physical standard to go out there and do

Something that is very very dangerous that will put other people’s lives at risk so yeah surfing understood that and the corporations which became corporations they weren’t originally understood that as well when the Accord DNA and so that was a all the marketing was a reflection of that um one thing I

Didn’t address though in that first email from the guy in Canada I think is also really Salient about kids with social media and the comparisons that they’re making and how that is then affecting their decisions that they’re making in life I think that’s a problem that we haven’t fully identified what

The effects are going to be of it like his kid without any social media or any other outside he would just potentially paddle out paddle out surf in the lake and realize gliding on a waves incredible this is super duper fun you know yeah but when he looks at pulls up

Instagram and sees photos of Hawaii with chicks and bikinis and a perfect six foot wave and a guy getting shacked on it it’s like oh this is a way lesser version than that yeah well so it’s to his detriment you know unfortunately put the phone down yeah

Um okay we’ve beat that topic with some sort of stick um I got a mustsee moment presented by trees wax.com petroleum free surfwax yeah me too I got I got a couple things actually that I want to point out um my first one is just go follow Peter King on Instagram yesterday

At the end of the day he published the free surf footage from pipeline in the morning before the contest started it’s 60 seconds and it’s like it’s so action-packed so rad I just want to write on there thank you for doing this he was swimming he probably spent two

Hours in the water to get that 60 seconds for you and I and then another two hours editing to get it on Instagram that night in swimming at pipe when there wasn’t much of a channel yesterday it’s just a heroic effort so go check that out it is so valuable if you’re a

Fan of Surfing yeah thank you Peter that’s great stoked to hear that my actual my original musty moment before I saw that though was somebody I don’t know who started an Instagram account called underscore safe playcore and all it is is they call surfboard Shapers and they have a

Conversation with them on the phone it’s like a mini podcast and they publish it as a video with like little scribbling of images of that shape or images of their Board imag of people serving the board and little scribblings um illustrations and stuff it’s really creative it’s very simple and cool it’s

Like a mini podcast but just in a 60-second format uh the current they’ve posted three uh Clips so far the first one with was was Shane Stoneman in um Central California Shane stoneman’s incredible and then the second one was with Mike wisnet from Jacksonville Beach Florida so check those out super cool

Safe playcore safe playcore on Instagram by the way um I was speaking with Christian beish the other day yeah I did a podcast with him and um and we came up with some names of some understated Shapers that this guy’s Instagram account what’s it called underscore uncore safl uncore he might

Consider reaching out to these guys Spencer Davis Dustin Baker Jonah Ry rers or reamers I might have that mispronounced I apologize Jeff sabota and Joe ye those are five Shapers that Christian beam has brought to my attention um that that might be worthy of theore Instagram account and um yeah

So there’s that now I have a musty moment and it is the new noad Deen film called Mash noad Dean and James Kates made this film uh I will say this it’s a little bit long in my opinion it could have been edited down but what you do get is

Noah’s style which I find fascinating it’s very understated he’s got this less is more style until he goes into the air when he goes into the air he just like slobs his way through these incredible you know big massive airs so he’s got this really clean smooth sort of like

Wayne Dean noad Dean backf footed really great pocket style you know just super less is more understated as I mentioned then he goes up and he’s just like Cutting Edge Next Level doing stuff up in the air so it’s a super fun watch if you want to get fired up before your

Surf session go check out Mash uh it’s on stab a new film by Noah Dean and James Kates I haven’t seen it but I I was excited for it to come out I saw couple of teaser Clips so and he’s an incredible Surfer and I have a Duke oh

Hit it yeah my duke is sadly uh frier Bill Frierson rest in peace he passed away a few days ago uh he’s my duke con MCO great guy I’ll read a little bit about him he was an honored shaper at the East Coast shape off this year at

Surf Expo and um that just happened a couple weeks ago and he’s a member of the international surfboard Builders Hall of Fame he was inducted in 2019 um Bill’s Journey started in 1965 when was a young Surfer coming up in Virginia Beach um he was a member of

The Hobie team in ‘ 67 he started shaping boards at wave riding vehicles uh he was also the men’s division East Coast surfing champion great Surfer in 1969 in 70 he moved to North Carolina and that’s when he began his wave riding vehicles um career shaping boards and he

Teamed up with the legendary Les Shaw in 1974 to buy wave riding vehicles and together they built the business into what it is today um and they’re capable of producing a ton of great surfboards he sold his portion of the business and opened Frierson designs where uh he

Shaped his all of his boards by hand and um his status as a Hall of Fame shaper never impacted the way he did business he always um kept the price right and wanted to make sure you were a stoked uh end user friend and Surfer of his boards

Um he did it for the right reasons um and it was all about the art for frier Bill Frierson rest in peace he’s my duke K moku excellent Memorial well David look we said a lot the pipe events probably going to happen again today and we’ve got more good

Solid pipe of um contest hopefully on the horizon until next time adios and aloha

In today’s episode Scott and David recap the opening day of the CT season at Pipe, Filipe’s remarkable act of discourage, why Callum would beat Fil in a “proper wave” Tour, the Wildcard’s comfortability, and how Ethan and Jack are looking primed to join the Gabe vs JJF rivalry. Enjoy!

9 Comments

  1. New sub,new to surfing at 45.. love all the real info you guys be kicking.much resapect from West Coast of Florida (st Pete bch)

  2. Enjoy your combined indepth commentaries, thanks for sharing. Regarding helmets at Pipe … a recent Koa Rothman video of his seriously trying out different kinds of helmets at Pipe … and hating them all … I sensed it was partly the not-cool factor … but mostly how it messed with his hearing that messes with all of one’s senses one is used to having in balance. So got that one would have find the best one for them and need to keep wearing it until they could adjust to it … but not all will be willing to do that. So guess the risk I guess is worth it, especially when you are so young and still immortal. Regarding the age thing … I am so grateful I had surfing in the 60’s ditching school (Malibu, NS & Oz) as a teen during a time when it was still an outsider counter-culture sport free of the commercial aspect … no leashes only long boards. It taught me so many useful things that I then unknowingly applied to how I lived the rest of my life … that most significantly was a very deep bonding with the ocean and all of nature. And so at 74 now, it’s interesting to hear that surfing has lost it’s apeal with young kids. Huh. Anyways, wished I had started listening to your shows 10 years ago. Aloha from Kona

  3. I can’t help but think about Filipe getting all fired up and screaming at the camera when Jackson Baker got that good score in their heat at tiny bells/winkipop last year. Screaming at the camera Like he didn’t think Jackson baker was good enough to get that score. Jackson Baker definitely would have swung on a few waves out at pipe yesterday. Couple that with Fil’s response to his critics on insta yesterday. What a joke. The guy lacks character.

  4. In the late '60s and early '70s, as a grom, there was a prevailing stigma surrounding surfers, often branded as beach bums characterized by laziness, beer consumption, weed smoking, and Womanizing. My dad's cautionary words were heard loud and clear, "I don't mind you going surfing, just don't become a beach bum." So of course, we did. Today, the surf lineups feature a diverse mix of suits – doctors, realtors, lawyers, police, and even athletes. The once-rebellious sport of surfing has faded and turned into everything that surfers were against. Plus, what kid wants to be like their dad and his friends?

  5. Snaking and dropping in. The commentators wish for the words to be used precisely is in line with clear communication. If I use snake for back paddling and dropping in things are less precise, less clear than if they are each used specifically. Host probably wouldn't change out the names given to aerials for instance: slob 360 or whatever they are called.
    Felipe. He is, in a sense, sticking to the tour, highlighting how they've drained interest and credibility out of the sport. And winning!! Take it from the man.
    Ronny Lott smashed the tip of his finger in the middle of a game. They could have saved the finger but he had it cut off so he could keep playing in that game. And there's lots of slimy, morally questionable people who rise to the top of various sports. Felipe seems like he's living in a movie but it's maybe kind of a boring movie?

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